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HUMANE TRAPPING INSTRUCTIONS
(Adapted from Feral Cat Coalition)
revised 9/7/2000

Calico Catbar

These instructions assume that trappers are using either traps from the Tomahawk Live Trap Company or one of Cat Network's custom-made box traps. Specifics regarding the traps may be slightly different if you are using another type of trap. Make arrangements with one of the vets on our list in advance of trapping. You may want to take a pet carrier to the vet's office and ask the vet to transfer the cat into it after surgery. The carrier will be more comfortable for the cat if you need to care for the cat.

PREPARATION FOR TRAPPING

If possible, get the cats used to being fed at the same place and time of day. You might try leaving the trap unset during routine feeding so that the animal will get used to seeing and smelling it in the area. If you are using the BOX trap, you can leave off the door, and place the food in the back of the trap to accustom the cat to eating inside the trap.

Don't feed the day/night before trapping. The cats must be hungry. Notify others who may feed the cats not to leave food out.* Trap the night before your surgery appointment if possible. Cats should not eat 12 hours prior to surgery.

Prepare a protected area, such as a garage or enclosed patio to hold the cats after trapping and before going to the vet. Lay down newspapers to catch the inevitable stool, urine and food residue. You may want to use pieces of wood to elevate the traps off the newspapers. This allows the mess to fall through the wire away from the cats. Spraying the area ahead of time with a cat-safe flea spray (like Adams or Ovitrol) will discourage ants.

Prepare the vehicle you will use to transport the cats. Use a thick layer of newspapers or newspaper over plastic to place under the trap.

If trapping at night, bring a flashlight.

SETTING THE TRAPS

Plan to set traps just before or at the cats' normal feeding time. This is often at night. Dusk is usually the best time to set traps. Don't trap in the rain without adequate protection for the trap. Don't trap in the heat of day.

Fold a piece of newspaper to line the bottom of the trap.

Use smelly food to bait the trap. Don't forget a spoon, can-opener, and a cap to place on the can of un-used food. Canned sardines, canned tuna or even fried chicken are very effective Use a small paper plate or an additional small piece of paper to hold the food. Dribble the newspaper with a little food juice and place the food at the very back of the cage, as far beyond the trip plate as possible.* After baiting the trap, set the trap according to the enclosed instructions, depending on if you are using a Tomahawk trap or a box trap.

After setting the trap, cover it with a large towel or piece of towel-sized material. Fold the material at the front end of the trap to expose the opening while still covering the top and sides of the trap. The cover will help to camouflage the trap and serve to calm the cat after it is caught.

Place the trap on a level surface in the area where the cats usually feed or have been seen. If trapping in a public area, try to place traps where they will not be noticed by passersby (who may not understand that you are not trying to harm the cat).

WAITING FOR SUCCESS

Never leave traps unattended in an unprotected area, but don't hang around within sight of the cat. Wait quietly in an area where you can still see the traps without disturbing the cats.

If you are using a box trap, and are targeting a particular cat; you can use a squirt gun or spray bottle filled with water to discourage other cats as they approach the trap.

As soon as the intended cat is trapped, completely cover the trap and remove the trap from the area if other cats are not in sight. You may consider putting another trap in the same spot if it seems to be a "hot" one.

When you get the captured cat to a quiet area away from the other traps lift the cover and check that you have the correct animal. The Cat Network tips the left ear of every animal we alter so we can avoid repeat animals.

KEEP THE CAT COVERED. Uncovered, the cat may panic and hurt itself thrashing around in the trap.

HOLDING PROCEDURES

After you have finished trapping, you will probably have to hold the cats overnight until you can take them to the vet.

Place cats in the prepared protected area. Don't feed them. You can place a small bowl of water in the trap by opening the trap door just a couple of inches and placing the bowl by the trap door. Try to use a bowl that won't be tipped over easily. An empty cat food or tuna can works well.

Keep cats covered. They will probably be very quiet as long as they are covered. Don't allow children or pets near the traps. These are wild animals which scratch and bite.

Change clothes before having contact with your own pets as a precaution against spreading any contagious diseases the cats might carry. Always isolate the feral cats from your pets.

TRANSPORTING TO THE VET

Carry the cat to the vet in the covered trap. Do not try to transfer the cat into a carrier because it is dangerous and you risk the cat escaping. Bring a pet carrier with you, and the vet will transfer the cat to it after surgery. If the carrier is to be used for recuperation as well, place plenty of newspaper or a small litter box inside. After the cats are transferred, hose off traps and disinfect them with bleach. Store the traps in the "unset" position.

RECUPERATING THE CATS

If the veterinarian has indicated a serious medical problem with the cat which you will not be able to treat, you must make the decision on whether it is safe to release the animal or kinder to euthanize it. Cats can be treated for mange, ear-mites, worms, and mild upper-respiratory infections by placing the appropriate medicine in canned food. Discuss this option with the vet. We want to avoid suffering and a slow death.

Both female and male cats may be released as early as 24 hours after surgery as long as they are alert and there appears to be no medical complications such as bleeding or swelling. However, if you can hold the female cat at least three days, it allows a longer time for the stitches to heal. A large pet carrier works well as a recuperation cage, but a litter box must be provided. Place carrier in a quiet, protected location away from children and pets. Provide fresh food and water by placing the dishes just inside the door, without disturbing the animal.
The Cat Network has a limited number of recuperation cages which can be borrowed for a nominal deposit. Get advice or assistance from an experienced Cat Network member before attempting to transfer the female cat into a recuperation cage.

KITTENS

If young kittens are involved, remember that they should not be weaned from the mother before 4-6 weeks of age. If you are trapping a lactating female, you may want to wait until you have located the kittens and they are old enough to wean. If you have captured a lactating female, and you do not want to release her, this female must be released the next day following surgery so she can care for and nurse her kittens. It is a risk, but the kittens will otherwise starve.

Females with kittens will be attracted by the sound of their kittens if the previously captured kittens are placed in a covered carrier just behind the trap. Similarly, kittens will be easier to trap if the previously captured mom is in the carrier. Never place the "bait" animal in the trap or anywhere where it may be harmed by the trapped animal. Even moms can hurt their babies if frightened enough.

Some kittens can be caught without a trap but are still too wild to be handled easily. Use a thick towel to pick up the kitten to help protect you from scratching and biting. This also helps prevent the kitten from squirming away from you.

If you wish to tame and foster the kittens to adopt out, they should be taken from the mother at 4-6 weeks. If you wait until the kittens are older than 4-6 weeks before trying to tame them you will find the job progressively harder with age. For advice regarding the taming and/or fostering of feral or orphaned kittens consult your veterinarian or The Cat Network.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR SETTING A TOMAHAWK TRAP

Lift the front V-door by pushing the top of the door in and pulling the bottom of the door upward. There is a small hook (called the trigger) under the top of the cage on the right side. This trigger is attached to a rod which is connected to the trip plate. The trigger hooks onto a tiny brass roller located on the right side of the V-door. The trigger holds the V-door in an open position while raising the trip plate. When the cat enters the trap, it will step on the plate as it approaches the food at the back of the trap causing the trigger to release the door and close the trap. Make sure the back door is latched! Cover the trap with a towel if you have not already covered it, to calm the cat.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR SETTING A BOX TRAP

The box trap is very simple to use and is manually operated. This allows you to set the trap for a particular cat. The front trap door is held up by a nail which is attached to a long string. When the desired cat enters the trap to eat, you pull the string firmly and quickly which releases the nail, and the door slams down, trapping the cat in the box trap. This is especially effective for trapping more than one cat or kitten at a time.

Place the front door into the slots on either side of the front opening. Lower the door until the drilled hole near the bottom of the door is even with the top of the trap. Place the nail with attached string through the hole for about 1/4 inch or until it holds the door up (see drawing). The nail can be placed through the hole in either direction, depending on where you want to stand - behind the trap or in front of it. Un-spool the string to the desired length. You want to be far enough away from the trap to allow the wary cat to approach without fear. When the cat of your choice enters the trap, allow it time to start eating the food. When its attention is only focused on eating, spring the trap by pulling on the string. After the door goes down, quickly place a towel or sheet over the trap to calm the cat (if you did not cover it prior to setting the trap).